Here's a small article I wrote on cherry shrimp. Please feel free to ask questions or let me know what's not covered.
Cherry Shrimp
Neocaridina denticulata sinesis
Origin: Cambodia, Thailand
Temperature: 75 - 86
pH: 6-8
Maximum Size: 1.5 inches
Temperment: Peaceful algae eating shrimp, will be eaten by larger fish, especially cichlids.
Cherry shrimp are a color variation of the sinensis shrimp, which also come in a brown color and a green color.
Tank requirements/care:
They are easy to keep, requiring only an absence of predators and low nitrates (under 10ppm). They do well in a planted tank, and happily spend their days eating algae and leftover food. If you keep them in a species tank with little or no algae, feed them a variety of foods, such as algae wafers, shrimp pellets, vegetables or special foods for crabs/lobsters (both Hikari and HBH make these foods). A good supply of calcium in the shrimps’ diet is important, as is iodine. Some aquarists add some reef iodine supplement to the tank (half recommended dose, every two weeks or so) to help with molting. There is controversy about whether the shrimp can use iodine in the water column or not. As they grow, the shrimp molt on a regular basis. As they get larger, they molt less frequently. It is fine to leave the molted skins in the tank, as the shrimp will often eat them to gain back the nutrients lost on the skin. A 5g or 10g tank is fine for these shrimp. If you plan to breed these, small tankmates that will not eat the young are the best choice. Bottom feeders such as otocinclus or pygmy cories would be fine. Smaller rasboras or very small livebearers might also be a good choice.
Sexing:
Male shrimp are a less intense red, being mostly clear with red spots on them. Females are bright red. As the females mature, you may notice a yellow patch in the neck area – these are the ovaries.
Breeding:
As long as you have both males and females in your tank, and no predators, you shouldn’t have problems breeding these shrimp. Once a female is mature, she will begin producing eggs. A male will sense this, and deposit a sperm packet on the female to fertilize the eggs. If there is no male present, the unfertilized eggs will be dropped within a few days. The female carries fertilized eggs for around 22 to 28 days, after which she releases them as fully formed babies. You will see the female carrying the yellow eggs in her swimarettes, and aerating them occasionally. Extreme stress can cause the female to drop her eggs. A first-time mother will also sometimes drop her eggs. A female will produce somewhere between 10 and 20 babies, usually. The babies are about 1mm long, and look like miniature versions of the parents. The babies are usually almost clear when released, and take on a reddish color within a few days. It’s a good idea to put a sponge or mesh covering over the intake of a power/hang on back filter to stop the babies from being sucked up into the filter. Even if they are sucked up, they often survive.
Cherry Shrimp
Neocaridina denticulata sinesis
Origin: Cambodia, Thailand
Temperature: 75 - 86
pH: 6-8
Maximum Size: 1.5 inches
Temperment: Peaceful algae eating shrimp, will be eaten by larger fish, especially cichlids.
Cherry shrimp are a color variation of the sinensis shrimp, which also come in a brown color and a green color.
Tank requirements/care:
They are easy to keep, requiring only an absence of predators and low nitrates (under 10ppm). They do well in a planted tank, and happily spend their days eating algae and leftover food. If you keep them in a species tank with little or no algae, feed them a variety of foods, such as algae wafers, shrimp pellets, vegetables or special foods for crabs/lobsters (both Hikari and HBH make these foods). A good supply of calcium in the shrimps’ diet is important, as is iodine. Some aquarists add some reef iodine supplement to the tank (half recommended dose, every two weeks or so) to help with molting. There is controversy about whether the shrimp can use iodine in the water column or not. As they grow, the shrimp molt on a regular basis. As they get larger, they molt less frequently. It is fine to leave the molted skins in the tank, as the shrimp will often eat them to gain back the nutrients lost on the skin. A 5g or 10g tank is fine for these shrimp. If you plan to breed these, small tankmates that will not eat the young are the best choice. Bottom feeders such as otocinclus or pygmy cories would be fine. Smaller rasboras or very small livebearers might also be a good choice.
Sexing:
Male shrimp are a less intense red, being mostly clear with red spots on them. Females are bright red. As the females mature, you may notice a yellow patch in the neck area – these are the ovaries.
Breeding:
As long as you have both males and females in your tank, and no predators, you shouldn’t have problems breeding these shrimp. Once a female is mature, she will begin producing eggs. A male will sense this, and deposit a sperm packet on the female to fertilize the eggs. If there is no male present, the unfertilized eggs will be dropped within a few days. The female carries fertilized eggs for around 22 to 28 days, after which she releases them as fully formed babies. You will see the female carrying the yellow eggs in her swimarettes, and aerating them occasionally. Extreme stress can cause the female to drop her eggs. A first-time mother will also sometimes drop her eggs. A female will produce somewhere between 10 and 20 babies, usually. The babies are about 1mm long, and look like miniature versions of the parents. The babies are usually almost clear when released, and take on a reddish color within a few days. It’s a good idea to put a sponge or mesh covering over the intake of a power/hang on back filter to stop the babies from being sucked up into the filter. Even if they are sucked up, they often survive.
