Common Name: African Dwarf frogs
Scientific Name: Hymenochirus boettgeri/ Hymenochirus curtipes
Temperature: 70-84F
Max Size: 1.5 in
What are African Dwarf frogs (ADF’s)?
ADF’s are fully aquatic frogs that spend their entire life under water. They do not need or use land at any point in their life. Dwarf Frogs belong to the Pipidae family, which consists of tongueless, mostly warm-water tropical frogs.
Why are there two scientific names listed?
While most information (online at least) pertains to the name Hymenochirus boettgeri, there may be another species of frog that is nearly identical to the layman (in appearance, size, behavior etc.), called Hymenochirus curtipes, which may have less “warts” or bumps on its skin, although there is debate as to the identification (or even existence) of the two species. It seems as though any major distinction between the two is in the larval and egg stage. Both are interchangeable in an aquarium setting.
If you are interested in reading more about the difference between the two species you can Click Here .
Further more, there may be four species in the Hymenochris genus, with the other two being: H. boulengeri and H. feae.
In actuality, the differences between these purported species are not well documented and little is known about the state of the species. Some suspect that the vast majority of frogs are now a crossbreed between two species - with "pure" specimens seemingly impossible to find in the wild due to habitat destruction. Because the vast majority of these frogs are captive-bred, the possibility of them actually being hybrids is valid.
In other words, no one really knows. The lines of descent and relation between members of the Hymenochirus genus are widely contested.
For all intents and purposes, using Hymenochirus boettgeri is accepted. There are no differences in the care required for the animal and nomenclature is of little importance to the well-being of this creature in the aquarium.
If they are fully aquatic, how do they breathe? I don’t see any gills.
They breathe much like a betta or other anabantoids - except they cannot take any air in directly from the water; they must breathe atmospheric air just like us. If you watch a frog for a few minutes, you will see that they come up to the surface very quickly and strike the water. This is them taking in a gulp of air (sometimes, they will let out little bubbles after they take a breath). Then, they will frantically swim back down to the bottom - and they usually don’t care if anything is in their way! Rocks, plants, fish - doesn’t matter. They’ll zoom to the substrate.
Are these the same thing as African Clawed frogs?
Absolutely not! Clawed frogs get many, many times larger than African Dwarf frogs and will harm and/or eat even large fish, and will eat small fish. For more information regarding Clawed Frogs, look under the scientific name Xenopus laevis. (Note: Clawed Frogs are illegal in several states; be sure to check out the laws before you buy some illegally – without knowing it.)
How do I know if I have an African Dwarf frog and NOT an African Clawed frog?
The fastest way to tell is to look at their front feet. If they are webbed, they are African Dwarf frogs. If the front feet are not webbed, it is a clawed frog. A true African Dwarf Frog has 4 webbed fingers on each front foot and 5 webbed toes on the hind feet. Also, for the most part, there are no albino ADF’s. If you see a frog that is albino, it is safe to assume that it’s a Clawed frog. Yet another way to insure a proper ID of your frog is to look at the eyes. An Clawed frog’s eyes are positioned more on the top of the head, whereas a Dwarf frog’s eyes are located towards the sides of the head. It is important to look closely when purchasing your frog because young Clawed frogs are similar in size to young African Dwarf Frogs and can be easily mistaken for the dwarf form; it’s hard to see those tiny toes – look close!
But my supposed ADF has claws! Isn’t that a Clawed frog?
No. True ADF’s do have very small claws. They have three black claws on each of their hind feet. They do not use them to attack fish or eat their food, but they are useful to the frogs for digging and grabbing hold of surfaces to stand on.
The claws are evident in this picture of a frog lazily floating above a CO2 jet.
What kind of set-up does my frog require?
The best set-ups will be between 5 gallons and 29 gallons. The reason for these numbers is that 5 gallons of water is much easier to maintain than a smaller amount. If one can be very conscientious about water quality and sustaining consistent water parameters, a tank of 2.5 gallons would be acceptable for a frog or two. Tanks that are larger than 29 gallons can make finding your frog difficult since they do like to hide out, and because of ADF’s eating habits, they can be difficult to feed in larger tanks which can lead to starvation. It is therefore highly recommended that these frogs be kept in a tank no larger than 29 gallons.
Frogs, just like fish, are sensitive to ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. Therefore, these frogs require a filter. Any filter that is acceptable for fish is acceptable for the frogs. However, there are a few things to keep in mind when selecting the filter: 1) Frogs are not very strong and can easily be sucked up against a very over-powered filter; 2) Small/weak frogs are especially susceptible to this happening and it is advisable to ensure that the filter intake is covered - their arms and legs can get caught inside and broken (unfortunately, this isn’t a rare occurrence). Sponges/small filter covers will work to cover the filter intakes. This prevents any limbs from being sucked in.
Frogs also require a heater. Temperatures between 70-82F degrees are acceptable, though frogs can withstand higher temperatures around 86-88F if unavoidable (during summer months, for instance).
African Dwarf frogs can be a little shy and require a few hiding spaces. Caves made from smooth, aquarium-safe rocks make ideal hiding places. Aquarium-safe pots, PVC pipe, store-bought ornaments, real or fake plants, and driftwood also make wonderful safe-spots in which the frogs can hide or rest. Without sufficient hiding places, ADFs have been known to become restless and unhappy - especially if the tank has bright lighting. If your frogs feel secure and comfortable, and know that they have somewhere safe to retreat to, they are more likely to exhibit normal behavior and will come out more.
If you are setting up a Frog-Only tank, you may want to consider using a smooth sand substrate. These frogs really like to dig around looking for food or making little holes to sit in. Sand is also very gentle on their skin since they are almost always in contact with the substrate. ADF’s, however, will be perfectly fine if placed with regular aquarium gravel - anything that isn’t particularly sharp will work.
But no matter what type of tank you use, it ABSOLUTELY MUST BE COMPLETELY COVERED. Use duct tape or window screen if necessary to eliminate any and all gaps near filters, heaters, CO2 lines, etc. ADF’s are notorious jumpers and will sometimes fly out of the water when striking the surface for air. These little guys won’t live very long on your carpet (they can dry out within minutes and endure a long, slow death since they breathe atmospheric air – it would just be a matter of time as to how long before their skin hardens and dries), so make sure that there is no way for them to escape!
To be continued...
Scientific Name: Hymenochirus boettgeri/ Hymenochirus curtipes
Temperature: 70-84F
Max Size: 1.5 in
What are African Dwarf frogs (ADF’s)?
ADF’s are fully aquatic frogs that spend their entire life under water. They do not need or use land at any point in their life. Dwarf Frogs belong to the Pipidae family, which consists of tongueless, mostly warm-water tropical frogs.
Why are there two scientific names listed?
While most information (online at least) pertains to the name Hymenochirus boettgeri, there may be another species of frog that is nearly identical to the layman (in appearance, size, behavior etc.), called Hymenochirus curtipes, which may have less “warts” or bumps on its skin, although there is debate as to the identification (or even existence) of the two species. It seems as though any major distinction between the two is in the larval and egg stage. Both are interchangeable in an aquarium setting.
If you are interested in reading more about the difference between the two species you can Click Here .
Further more, there may be four species in the Hymenochris genus, with the other two being: H. boulengeri and H. feae.
In actuality, the differences between these purported species are not well documented and little is known about the state of the species. Some suspect that the vast majority of frogs are now a crossbreed between two species - with "pure" specimens seemingly impossible to find in the wild due to habitat destruction. Because the vast majority of these frogs are captive-bred, the possibility of them actually being hybrids is valid.
In other words, no one really knows. The lines of descent and relation between members of the Hymenochirus genus are widely contested.
For all intents and purposes, using Hymenochirus boettgeri is accepted. There are no differences in the care required for the animal and nomenclature is of little importance to the well-being of this creature in the aquarium.
If they are fully aquatic, how do they breathe? I don’t see any gills.
They breathe much like a betta or other anabantoids - except they cannot take any air in directly from the water; they must breathe atmospheric air just like us. If you watch a frog for a few minutes, you will see that they come up to the surface very quickly and strike the water. This is them taking in a gulp of air (sometimes, they will let out little bubbles after they take a breath). Then, they will frantically swim back down to the bottom - and they usually don’t care if anything is in their way! Rocks, plants, fish - doesn’t matter. They’ll zoom to the substrate.
Are these the same thing as African Clawed frogs?
Absolutely not! Clawed frogs get many, many times larger than African Dwarf frogs and will harm and/or eat even large fish, and will eat small fish. For more information regarding Clawed Frogs, look under the scientific name Xenopus laevis. (Note: Clawed Frogs are illegal in several states; be sure to check out the laws before you buy some illegally – without knowing it.)
How do I know if I have an African Dwarf frog and NOT an African Clawed frog?
The fastest way to tell is to look at their front feet. If they are webbed, they are African Dwarf frogs. If the front feet are not webbed, it is a clawed frog. A true African Dwarf Frog has 4 webbed fingers on each front foot and 5 webbed toes on the hind feet. Also, for the most part, there are no albino ADF’s. If you see a frog that is albino, it is safe to assume that it’s a Clawed frog. Yet another way to insure a proper ID of your frog is to look at the eyes. An Clawed frog’s eyes are positioned more on the top of the head, whereas a Dwarf frog’s eyes are located towards the sides of the head. It is important to look closely when purchasing your frog because young Clawed frogs are similar in size to young African Dwarf Frogs and can be easily mistaken for the dwarf form; it’s hard to see those tiny toes – look close!
But my supposed ADF has claws! Isn’t that a Clawed frog?
No. True ADF’s do have very small claws. They have three black claws on each of their hind feet. They do not use them to attack fish or eat their food, but they are useful to the frogs for digging and grabbing hold of surfaces to stand on.
The claws are evident in this picture of a frog lazily floating above a CO2 jet.
What kind of set-up does my frog require?
The best set-ups will be between 5 gallons and 29 gallons. The reason for these numbers is that 5 gallons of water is much easier to maintain than a smaller amount. If one can be very conscientious about water quality and sustaining consistent water parameters, a tank of 2.5 gallons would be acceptable for a frog or two. Tanks that are larger than 29 gallons can make finding your frog difficult since they do like to hide out, and because of ADF’s eating habits, they can be difficult to feed in larger tanks which can lead to starvation. It is therefore highly recommended that these frogs be kept in a tank no larger than 29 gallons.
Frogs, just like fish, are sensitive to ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. Therefore, these frogs require a filter. Any filter that is acceptable for fish is acceptable for the frogs. However, there are a few things to keep in mind when selecting the filter: 1) Frogs are not very strong and can easily be sucked up against a very over-powered filter; 2) Small/weak frogs are especially susceptible to this happening and it is advisable to ensure that the filter intake is covered - their arms and legs can get caught inside and broken (unfortunately, this isn’t a rare occurrence). Sponges/small filter covers will work to cover the filter intakes. This prevents any limbs from being sucked in.
Frogs also require a heater. Temperatures between 70-82F degrees are acceptable, though frogs can withstand higher temperatures around 86-88F if unavoidable (during summer months, for instance).
African Dwarf frogs can be a little shy and require a few hiding spaces. Caves made from smooth, aquarium-safe rocks make ideal hiding places. Aquarium-safe pots, PVC pipe, store-bought ornaments, real or fake plants, and driftwood also make wonderful safe-spots in which the frogs can hide or rest. Without sufficient hiding places, ADFs have been known to become restless and unhappy - especially if the tank has bright lighting. If your frogs feel secure and comfortable, and know that they have somewhere safe to retreat to, they are more likely to exhibit normal behavior and will come out more.
If you are setting up a Frog-Only tank, you may want to consider using a smooth sand substrate. These frogs really like to dig around looking for food or making little holes to sit in. Sand is also very gentle on their skin since they are almost always in contact with the substrate. ADF’s, however, will be perfectly fine if placed with regular aquarium gravel - anything that isn’t particularly sharp will work.
But no matter what type of tank you use, it ABSOLUTELY MUST BE COMPLETELY COVERED. Use duct tape or window screen if necessary to eliminate any and all gaps near filters, heaters, CO2 lines, etc. ADF’s are notorious jumpers and will sometimes fly out of the water when striking the surface for air. These little guys won’t live very long on your carpet (they can dry out within minutes and endure a long, slow death since they breathe atmospheric air – it would just be a matter of time as to how long before their skin hardens and dries), so make sure that there is no way for them to escape!
To be continued...
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