Nano Verts?
- Thread starter Angryeric116
- Start date
yeah, i am aware that it is going to be expensive, thats why i am going nano instead of trying to work for a larger tank that i couldnt afford, right now i keep my freshwater in tip-top shape, i take care of it once a week every wensday before i take out the trash, but i would want somthing closer to a beginner level setup, since this is going to be my first SW
P.S. this is just an idea right now i havent purchased anything yet
P.S. this is just an idea right now i havent purchased anything yet
I would advise you to read the sticky here: http://www.myfishtank.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19498 and get at least a couple of the books mentioned. They will save you all sorts of money/time/heartache.
The Fenner book has a larger section on inverts, but the Paletta book has a whole load of practical advice and checklists for setting up a tank.
The Fenner book has a larger section on inverts, but the Paletta book has a whole load of practical advice and checklists for setting up a tank.
Here's my invert stock list in my 10 gallon nano:
2 astrea snails and 3 cereth snails
4 blue legged hermit crabs
1 emerald crab
1 brittle starfish
A good invert stock list is one that is varied. Different snails eat different algae. Emerald crabs eat bubble and some hair algae while hermits eat brown. In a ten, however, an emerald is a gamble because some have been known to munch on corals, attack fish, or grow quite large.
With curing live rock I'd just buy the cured stuff and monitor your water to be sure it's actually fully cured.
You probably already know this, but be sure you cover your tank somehow if you go for the firefish. I had one and it jumped out after a water change. I run an open top, and I highly recommend them because they eliminate salt creep and keep the temp down. You can use light diffuser grids to prevent the firefish to jump and still maintain an open hood.
Substrate: argonite sand seems to be most people's sand of choice. I used the cheapo playsand with the high silica content (common knowledge says this causes cynobacteria outbreaks, but mine hasn't). There is also argonite playsand available too in some home improvement stores but it's a little more pricey.
Hope this helps!
2 astrea snails and 3 cereth snails
4 blue legged hermit crabs
1 emerald crab
1 brittle starfish
A good invert stock list is one that is varied. Different snails eat different algae. Emerald crabs eat bubble and some hair algae while hermits eat brown. In a ten, however, an emerald is a gamble because some have been known to munch on corals, attack fish, or grow quite large.
With curing live rock I'd just buy the cured stuff and monitor your water to be sure it's actually fully cured.
You probably already know this, but be sure you cover your tank somehow if you go for the firefish. I had one and it jumped out after a water change. I run an open top, and I highly recommend them because they eliminate salt creep and keep the temp down. You can use light diffuser grids to prevent the firefish to jump and still maintain an open hood.
Substrate: argonite sand seems to be most people's sand of choice. I used the cheapo playsand with the high silica content (common knowledge says this causes cynobacteria outbreaks, but mine hasn't). There is also argonite playsand available too in some home improvement stores but it's a little more pricey.
Hope this helps!
I suggest that if you're not already set on the 10g, to go with a 20g. Take it from someone who just switched from a 10g nano to a 20g nano because as a first time SW tank you're going to run into some algae problems. regardless of the research you do, you're going to have to learn atleast some from trial and error, and on top of that there's some things you just simply can't read about.
When i had the 10g, i ran into a lot of problems that in most tanks would be easily avoidable (cynobacteria, diatoms and overfeeding) but because you're running such a small system, it's exaggerated greatly and in 3-4 days it's over run your tank. even the upgrade to 20g, makes it substantially easier.
If you're worried about the money in comparison to a 10, i dare say you can fund a 20 for only about...75-150 dollars more. Depending on what you choose for LR and filtering, and that's even including the extra cost of a bigger tank.
Take this with a grain of salt, because as i said i'm still doing a lot of learning but i've just under went the exact same thing you're planning.
When i had the 10g, i ran into a lot of problems that in most tanks would be easily avoidable (cynobacteria, diatoms and overfeeding) but because you're running such a small system, it's exaggerated greatly and in 3-4 days it's over run your tank. even the upgrade to 20g, makes it substantially easier.
If you're worried about the money in comparison to a 10, i dare say you can fund a 20 for only about...75-150 dollars more. Depending on what you choose for LR and filtering, and that's even including the extra cost of a bigger tank.
Take this with a grain of salt, because as i said i'm still doing a lot of learning but i've just under went the exact same thing you're planning.
You can make the upgrade from a 10 to a twenty for very little as even if you hang the hardware from a 10 on a 20 you're miles better off.
my real advice is to read, read and read, and if you want a nano learn what will work and what won't, and live with it. I don't think that a 20 long marine tank with live rock and 3 or 4 small fish need be very difficult.
my real advice is to read, read and read, and if you want a nano learn what will work and what won't, and live with it. I don't think that a 20 long marine tank with live rock and 3 or 4 small fish need be very difficult.
if you ask them for the flourescent light difusers that should get them thinking in the right direction...a lot of times it is also referred to as egg crate:
http://www.collins-consulting.org/orchids/eggCrate.jpg
http://www.collins-consulting.org/orchids/eggCrate.jpg