Bioballs?

janene

Medium Fish
Feb 16, 2003
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#1
How does one use bioballs, as in where do you put them? I have 2 large cannister filters - would I put them in the center of the cannisters? My tank doesn't have a UGF, just the 2 cannisters and live plants. It's pretty stable, but the plants aren't doing great and I'm not changing the water as often as I should, probably, so I'm looking for something else that can help me out. I've seen bioballs and wasn't sure how they are used.
 

janene

Medium Fish
Feb 16, 2003
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#3
Originally posted by aquatic-store
bioballs would be the last stge in your filter.
There are better alternatives for canister filters though
Bioballs would normally be in a big sump or wetdry
What are the alternatives? I popped over to your store and was looking at the nitrate reducers... yowch, expensive, lol. Also looked at CO2 for the plants... *wince* Xmas, maybe...
 

Avalon

Superstar Fish
Oct 22, 2002
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#4
A better biofilter is not going to solve your nitrate problems. You have 2 options: do more water changes or get your plants to growing!

A supply of nutrients should be able to help you out if you can't manage the water changes. It is very possible to get away without doing water changes and still have a very successful planted tank along with healthy inhabitants. Seachems's Flourish, Tropica's Master Grow, and Yamato Green are all good choices to help your plants out. You may even wish to consider an automatic doser for your liquid ferts. Go easy with them though.
 

#6
Hit it on the head.
I suggest weekly water changes.
Your fish will love you and so will your plants, giveing them a growth spurt.

Co2 addition is not a requirement in a tank for plant growth.

Why not try a diy co2 set up and see how it works for you.
Cheap, but a pain to do every 2-3 weeks

Or suppliment daily with seachems excel which is a liquid carbon substitute
 

janene

Medium Fish
Feb 16, 2003
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#8
Originally posted by Avalon
A better biofilter is not going to solve your nitrate problems. You have 2 options: do more water changes or get your plants to growing!
I'm doing the changes every 3 weeks right now, usually about 15-20%.

Originally posted by Avalon

A supply of nutrients should be able to help you out if you can't manage the water changes. It is very possible to get away without doing water changes and still have a very successful planted tank along with healthy inhabitants. Seachems's Flourish, Tropica's Master Grow, and Yamato Green are all good choices to help your plants out. You may even wish to consider an automatic doser for your liquid ferts. Go easy with them though.
I do have Flourish and I got some plant tabs to stick in the substrate. I think I was vaccing too deep for awhile and it hurt my plants. Now I'm just skimming the top. I guess I just learn slow, sigh.

When you say go easy... can you elaborate?

BTW, I guess the water isn't too terribly awful - I've had eggs 2 weekends in a row :)
 

Avalon

Superstar Fish
Oct 22, 2002
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#9
Sure! "Going easy" means following the directions. Some people tend to believe that if their plants aren't growing, the need ferts. This is not always the case. More is not always better. I never doubted you...heck, I know planted tanks take time and attention, and I'm short on it myself! Fert manufacturers usually give their directions assuming a bi-weekly water change. You can dose accordingly--every two weeks is good, maybe a bit more often; it just depends on your plant load.

Ya, never vaccuum into the substrate at all in a planted tank, especially if you have plant tabs!

Your water change schedule should be fine. You may want to change a bit more at a time. I mean heck, if you're going to make the effort, let's make it worthwhile! Up to 50% should be fine.

Over a short period of time, your trace nutrients will be used up. This is why trace fertilizers are important. You may also want to keep tabs on your nitrogen and phosphorus levels. Monitor them over the 3 week period and see where they are. If they drop to zero, then your plants will stop growing and algae will take over. Don't forget to add potassium as well! These nutrients are not available in proper quantities in Flourish, so they will have to be dosed seperately.
 

janene

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Feb 16, 2003
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#11
Originally posted by Avalon
Sure! "Going easy" means following the directions.
Ok, I've not been overdoing it, probably under, actually.
Originally posted by Avalon

Ya, never vaccuum into the substrate at all in a planted tank, especially if you have plant tabs!
I just started stuffing them into the substrate with this water change, so I haven't sucked them up, yet, lol. I just shoved it close to the Amazon, btw, almost under it, but not quite. Is that right?
Originally posted by Avalon

Your water change schedule should be fine. You may want to change a bit more at a time. I mean heck, if you're going to make the effort, let's make it worthwhile! Up to 50% should be fine.
Ok, sweetheart, *crazysmil it's 150g, 5 gallon refills at a time. I do 10 of those and I'm one sore puppy. 17? Ugh. LOL I really need to figure out an automatic system, then I'd be able to do more of it, or more often.
Originally posted by Avalon

Over a short period of time, your trace nutrients will be used up. This is why trace fertilizers are important. You may also want to keep tabs on your nitrogen and phosphorus levels. Monitor them over the 3 week period and see where they are. If they drop to zero, then your plants will stop growing and algae will take over. Don't forget to add potassium as well! These nutrients are not available in proper quantities in Flourish, so they will have to be dosed seperately.
I got a Plant Lab tester, so I'll try that, thanks. Brand recommendation for the potassium?

Thanks Avalon, you always help me out!
 

Avalon

Superstar Fish
Oct 22, 2002
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#12
"I just started stuffing them into the substrate with this water change, so I haven't sucked them up, yet, lol. I just shoved it close to the Amazon, btw, almost under it, but not quite. Is that right?"

You can add the fert sticks in a radius around the plant that's as large as the leaf span.

"Ok, sweetheart, it's 150g, 5 gallon refills at a time. I do 10 of those and I'm one sore puppy. 17? Ugh. LOL I really need to figure out an automatic system, then I'd be able to do more of it, or more often."

Hehe, you use a 5 gallon bucket? OMG! Buy a good quality water hose and siphon it out. If you have a faucet nearby you can refill your tank very easily! Or you could use a waterbed attachment to your sink, or buy a python. If you go the water hose route, cheap water hoses will kink really bad, and only use it for your water changes.

There are a couple of sources of potassium. Seachem's potassium additive is far too weak. It would take almost 500mL per week! I use a brand called Hi-Yield "Muriate of Potash." It's essentially KCL. There is also another formula, K2SO4--potassium sulphate that will work also. These chemicals are produced by many different manufacturers, and are usually available at nurseries. A couple year's supply should run you less than $10.
 

janene

Medium Fish
Feb 16, 2003
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#13
Originally posted by Avalon

You can add the fert sticks in a radius around the plant that's as large as the leaf span.
How many at a time and how often, then? And these weren't sticks, they were tablets. Did I get the wrong thing?
Originally posted by Avalon

Hehe, you use a 5 gallon bucket? OMG! Buy a good quality water hose and siphon it out. If you have a faucet nearby you can refill your tank very easily! *snip*
I do syphon it out, but not in. The tank is near my kitchen sink and the faucet there has some kind of inhibitor that limits flow to agonizingly slow. The tub is a possibility, but I was worried about the soap/etc in the tub (my twin 3yr olds bathe in there). Plus I was pre-treating it with Prime in each bucketful - is this necessary? I do have well water, in the CO mtns, so it has no chlorine, but does have nitrates, naturally :(
Originally posted by Avalon

There are a couple of sources of potassium. *snip*
Cool, thanks for the info! *celebrate
 

Balance

Large Fish
Jul 16, 2003
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#14
janene, you should invest in a Python for your water changes. its easy to use and wont make a mess. defintely worth the money.

and if you have a flow inhibitor on your facet, try to find it and take it off. they put those things on every faucet and shower in my townhouse, as well as setting all the tubs/showers so they would barely put out hot water.

the inhibitors are "usually" inside the faucets head. usually just a weird shaped rubber or plastic insert.

I had to remove all of the inhibitors in my house just so I could wash the soap out my hair in the morning!

btw, love that tank of yours. I really like the rainbows. I'm just about done cycling my new 75g and im planning on placing about 10 rainbows into it.....