Low Alkalinity

Mar 7, 2008
47
0
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LI, New York
#1
I have a ten gallon tank with 5 tetras and 4 corycats that has been running for one year next month. The last few times I have tested the water, the alkalinity and the Ph have been very low. I feel like no matter what I do, I cannot get the ph or the alkalinity to go up!!! I have tried water changes and "ph up".

Please help!! I fear that if it goes any lower I am going to have some serious problems!!!
Thanks for any help/suggestions that you might have!!*twirlysmi
 

Rayneuki

Large Fish
May 29, 2008
228
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Memphis, TN
#2
The most important thing is not what the alk or ph is, but that it's stable. Messing with it with stuff like 'ph up' can cause more harm than good.

What are the measurements exactly?
 

TAL

Large Fish
Sep 7, 2008
588
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#3
How often are you doing water exhanges?

You alk may be low because you need fresh water and the pH may be dropping because of the low alk and its inability to hel stabilize the pH.

What are your readings?

What is the pH and alk of the water your use to do exchanges and

Maybe you need a touch of buffer+

If you let that alk drop too low you are more open to having a pH crash.
 

Jun 21, 2008
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#4
Just a question, but how can the pH and the alkalinity both be low? Wouldn't a low pH mean that your water was slightly acidic, which is the opposite of alkaline? I'm not positive, but that was my understanding of it. But, either way, yes, it does seem to be better to just have it stable than to try to mess with it to "fix" it.
 

TAL

Large Fish
Sep 7, 2008
588
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0
#5
Just a question, but how can the pH and the alkalinity both be low? Wouldn't a low pH mean that your water was slightly acidic, which is the opposite of alkaline? I'm not positive, but that was my understanding of it. But, either way, yes, it does seem to be better to just have it stable than to try to mess with it to "fix" it.


Often confused but the alk is best thought of as Buffering capacity

The true opposite of acidity is basicity.

Low buffering capacity could be why his pH is dropping too low.

I was more familiar with this in terms of maintaining my pool water as the alk levels were key in maintaining a proper pH over a long period of time - meaning - it wasn't often you had to fix it but it was important to do it...

A little different with aquarium since the water is always (or should be) exchanged...
 

TAL

Large Fish
Sep 7, 2008
588
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#6
I agree with stability being very important BUT BUT BUT

low buffering capacity will mean that the pH could crash and that fast crash could be fatal.

By maintaining a proper buffering ability (alkalinity) then the pH can remain stable which is what we want.

A proper buffering capacity reading should be between 120 to about 250.

ETA: and always remember...a very low pH could be hiding a high ammonia problem as ammonia is less toxic in water with lower pH readings.

ETA: I am not a big fan of simply adding ph + or - because they effect other things and you may be treating a sympton and not the actual problem.
 

Avalon

Superstar Fish
Oct 22, 2002
2,846
10
0
Ft. Worth, TX
www.davidressel.com
#7
The natural stability of pH has little to do with so called "tank crashes." Tanks don't simply crash unless you do something to cause it. Sudden, dramatic changes typically found in more than one variable can cause problems. You typically see this in acclimation. If the fish become acclimated to a low KH (alkalinity) & pH environment, then it's best to leave it alone. Tetras are much better off anyway.

KH = alkalinity
GH = hardness
pH = overrated measurement ;)

KH is the buffer for water. All it does is resist change in pH. Do you need a buffer? Usually, no. Will your water turn acidic and dissolve your fish? No. Will not having a buffer cause problems with fish? No.

pH swings are typical and in the wild they can fluctuate severely on a daily basis. Healthy fish are impervious to this change. Sudden, drastic changes, say going from high pH tap water to acidic water can harm fish. They are not used to this change. Again, you will typically see this in acclimation of new fish--along with different KH & GH values. Is a low pH harmful to fish? No. Can it ever get too low? If you force it (pH regulators) it can, otherwise, no. Can it get too high? Most fish do better in acidic water, especially tetras.
 

TAL

Large Fish
Sep 7, 2008
588
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0
#8
WHile somewhat correct you are minimizing the importance of buffering(alkalinity).

Lack of proper buffering wont kill the fish but it can make the tank susceptible to a pH crach which can be caused by something you have done (or not done).

But before we say more, we really neeed to know what the tank was measuring out at what also helpful will be the levels of what is being added.
 

Mar 7, 2008
47
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0
LI, New York
#9
Thank you for all of your posts!!

I am concerned that my testing equipment is not that "great." I am currently using test "strips" that have 6 pads. They are made by Jungle Aquariums.

Before I get any more crazy with this, can anyone reccomend a good test kit?? Maybe the AP liquid test kit? I am sorta on a tight budget, so I really cannot afford anything too pricey. I know most pet stores have the AP test kit for 30-40 bucks.

My readings came out as 0 alkalinity at 6.1 ph with the test strip.

Again, thank you all for your help!!

P.S. My tetras look fine!! So do the corys!!
 

TAL

Large Fish
Sep 7, 2008
588
0
0
#10
Your pH is low and your buffering capacity needs improvement.


I dont know if you are on city or well water but I'll bet just some water exchanges will increase your pH and alkalinity(buffering)

Then you may want to test the water you use to add to see if buffer+ is needed.

Do you keep rocks or driftwood in the tank that could be lowering the pH?

The API master kit is the best testing tool..... check the links at the bottom - those vendors may have better deals.

The test strips will suffice for now. As another member told me....cut the test strips in half and get double the tests out of the kit!

Test that faucet water...and remeber your wayer exchanges
 

Rayneuki

Large Fish
May 29, 2008
228
0
0
35
Memphis, TN
#11
Tal. Fish can adjust to ANY enviroment, as long as it's not pure acid.
It's fine, add some baking soda or do a good water change (50%) with tap water. It'll fix it up. My Ph is usually around 6.1. Don't worry about it

DO NOT ADD ANY OF THE 'CHEMICALS' THAT MESS WITH PH They can be VERY dangerous to your fish. SERIOUSLY.

If the fish look and act fine, don't worry about it. The main thing is Nitrate Nitrite and Ammonia. Those are what you need to worry about the most. Everything else only really starts to matter if you go planted.
 

dogdoc

Large Fish
Sep 6, 2005
393
1
0
#12
Listen to Avalon on this one. My tanks (and my tapwater) all have a KH of about 1 degree. And my daytime pH in the big tank is about 5.5. In a well maintained tank with weekly water changes, you are not going to experience the crash. If you want to try and get away with semi-monthly changes, you might be in trouble.
 

Jun 21, 2008
493
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#13
Also, thank you to everyone. I stand corrected. Somewhere in the far reaches of my brain a high school chemistry lesson is coming back. Basic? Yes, I vaguely recall the term. Isn't milk basic? Haha. Sorry for any confusion I might have caused. Also, my water has a really high pH naturally, which seems to be worse than low, so I feel your pain on this one. Hope you get it sorted out.
 

Mar 7, 2008
47
0
0
LI, New York
#14
Thanks again everyone!

I do not have any driftwood in my tank. I do have one "rock" that came from Petco. It's one of those real-looking rocks that they sell individually. It is orange/brownish in color.

Also, I do have two small live plants in there(the rest are fake), but they are green and healthy-looking.

I am definitely going to invest in the Master test kit soon.....

Thanks!!!