Huge diy custom tank help.

[MdngtRain]

I am planning on using a custom-built tank as the counter at my nature center. I am thinking l-shaped, but that may change based on the interior space of my building.
Anyway, I am picturing at least 6' for the longer part, and 3'-4' for the shorter part. The tank will be 2'-2.5' wide, with a wider counter top. I want to make it movable, on locking casters, so I can move it around if I have to. taking this into account, im taking suggestions on the best bottom support for the glass.
What would I needed to take into account when sealing the seams? I've done some seal repair, but never on anything that would have to hold that much. I was looking into a professional job, but that would cost me several thousand dollars (at least by rough-estimate from one lfs).
Should I try this myself? Or table the idea of a custom tank and just get a premade 260g? Im also not exactly sure where or how to hide the pumps, filters, wires...
Thanks!
Ps-im thinking cichlids, brackish, or marine. Can you think of pros & cons for each? Any one I do, I want to demonstrate the right way of doing it, as the main role of my business will be to educate the public on proper pet care to help cut down on pets being released, given away or sold due to exceeding expectations or means.

 

[KcMopar]

If you have not built a tank I would shy away from a large build but, maybe try a small 10 or 20 gallon build. As far as movable goes you would need like a super heavy duty cart low to the floor with a lot of ball bearing casters to support the huge load and a floor surface that is PERFECT in every way. Its probably better stationary IMO. I would recommend a commercial tank. If you put it by a wall you can drill or by one drilled the and plumb it through the wall and have the filter system in another room designed for this purpose. I would keep it simple and go freshwater. Africans can be bought that are very colorful and active.

 

[MdngtRain]

Thanks for the thoughts. I'm thinking the marine tank will be on a wall somewhere. The more I think about what's needed for that, the more I think it's a pain to have to figure out as a counter.
I want the counter to draw attention, so I'm thinking not only color but activity. The cichlids tanks I've seen lately have mostly fish that hide... Would a lake tank be similar? And would I be able to have a few biotopes if the tank is long enough? (how long would "long enough" be?)
Thanks!
C

 

[KcMopar]

Lake Malawi (mbuna) African cichlids are very lively. Most are Very colorful as well and fairly easy to care for. You could do an African rock dwellers biotope. These look great with a bunch of stacked rocks for their territories and crushed coral as substrate. They are always chasing the others away from THEIR ROCK LOL, so there is always action and then there is feeding TIME!! Look out, these guys eat.
If you go marine be ready for a HUGE learning curve and failures. No body gets salt right in the first few months to a year so just know and except that going into it. Also be prepared to spend about 4-8 times more for a complete like size marine tank. Live rock is not cheap!! I have well over One Hundred Dollars of live rock in a 10G tank.
Either way, if you want a nice size display/show tank you should have at least a 150 gallon unit. Even these are only 6 feet long so many people would not be able to view it at one time.

 

[skjl47]

Hello; On making the tank moveable and with focus on the casters. The caster wheels will need to be steel or the like and somewhat wide. The plastic covered wheels will take a set and have a flat spot after a time with that amount of weight and will not roll well later. The floor will need to be hard to prevent the steel wheels from making dimples in it. This will likely keep the options to cement or ??? A possible way around this might be heavy threaded bolts with pads that can be screwed down to take the weight off of the casters while the tank is stationary and unscrewed to allow for moving.

One of the rules I have imposed on myself over the years is that a tank should not be moved with water in it. The stand frame will have to be very strong and very stiff and even so perhaps much of the water should be removed when moving. Perhaps the tank will need to have a steel frame as well? I know that the bass fishing outfits have big tanks that they move around to fishing expos and this indicates that it can be done if you are willing to spend the money.

A very ambitious project. Please keep us posted if you decide to go ahead with it.

 

[Meleemaker]

I would always love to build a giant tank, but it is VERY expensive in itself and also very difficult.

If you are wanting a 260 gallon tank, I may remind you that its probably 10 pounds a gallon. Its more like 8.8 but with the tank stand and gravel and everything, you are looking at over 2,600 POUNDS sitting on those rollers. Not too smart IMO. I would deffinantly make it a stationary tank. Look into possible acrylic also, larger tanks like that get heavy, but acrylic saves some weight and can almost be made seamless. And as for moving with water....BIG NO NO for most standard aquariums....having one on a slightly uneven surface can cause a seam to go out, so moving that much water at once could rip your tank apart.

For hiding everything, underneath the tank in the stand is the best place to put all the hardwear and piping.

For fish....Astronotus Occelatus are by far my favorite fish, very messy, but very active. Its like having a dog in a tank...its pretty sweet they do tricks and eat feeders and are pretty phenonal fish to watch. Marine tanks can be extremely difficult for new hobbyist and chemicals and making sure that you have the right salt content is a lot more intensive. I would stick clear on such a big tank and start with maybe a 55 gallon for the biggest marine tank