Eclipse System 12 Nano invert/reef tank help

[rdreed]

I have an Eclipse System 12 that is now empty and my wife and I are wanting to set up a nano invert/reef tank. I understand the physics that a bigger tank is easier to maintain stable water qualities, but just can't afford to buy a new tank and set it up for saltwater at this time. And I figured that if I could maintain a small saltwater tank that larger ones would be alot easier further down the road.

Anyways, I know that I would need to purchase a larger light bulb to fit the hood, as from what I understand 3 to 5 watts per gallon is required. And the only filtration that I want to use is what is included with the System 12, unless I was to add a small Duetto filter ( I think the Duetto would help increase circulation in the tank. ) I already have a heater for this tank that is 50 watt. I would like to not have to use a protein skimmer or a powerhead, as a fully submersible protein skimmer is sort of expensive and I think a powerhead in that small of a tank would create a whirlpool effect. And would I want to use the same bio-wheel that I used when this tank was set up as a freshwater tank. And what substrate would be best, seasand or crushed coral? I like the look of seasand, but if there is a benefit to crushed coral then we would probably use that.

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!!
Thanks for your time!!

 

[DarthPadre]

Welcome. I highly suggest Live Rock with Powerheads. You'll want about 1-2 lbs. of Live Rock per gallon, a total GPH of 270 - 360 with the Powerheads. I'm helping a friend set up a 10-gal reef and we used two Powerheads, each 145 GPH, with about 17 lbs. of Live Rock. In my 20-gal reef I have two Powerheads, each 295 GPH, with about 30 lbs. of Live Rock. I also suggest you read the step-by-step guide at the top of this forum. It's a great guide.

 

[DarthPadre]

To follow up a bit, for lighting, if you are planning on having coral you'll want even more than 6w per gallon. Though this rule works well with bigger tanks, with small tanks the overall wattage just doesn't seem to work. None the less, you probably won't be putting coral in there for over a month so you have plenty of time to research lighting. Good luck and keep asking questions.

 

[rdreed]

What is more important regarding lighting?
wattage or kelvins??

 

[DarthPadre]

Wattage, but both are important. For kelvins, I hear 10k is best. I use dual lights which have both 10k and 7,500 (or something like that).

Let me rephrase. Both are important, especially in conjunction with each other. But if you are lacking in one area, lack in kelvins (but preferably neither).

 

[rdreed]

Went to the LFS today, actually a store that is moving, and picked up 2 36-40 watt ballasts for $10.00. ...hopefully they are good. I'll be testing them soon. If so then I'll be ordering a 16" 36w 10,000k compact fluorescent, and a 16" 36w actinic and some new 4 pin inline receptacles. Bend up my own custom deflector and then set it up. I know that i really don't need lighting in the first stages, but wanted to have it figured out before I dive in. If the ballasts are good I'll try to post my retrofit. Wish me luck!!

 

[rdreed]

Well, those ballasts that I picked up tested good, so I got the lights ordered. Mixed up my salty water and added the substrate. Got the heater going along with 1 Penguin 550 powerhead and the filter running with only a bonded filter pad in it. And I also went and started a 2 1/2 gallon quarantine tank. I've had it set up for a few days now and everything seems to be going good with this one. Picked up a couple pounds of liverock, and even brought some hitchhikers home with my purchase!! I'm waiting to add liverock to the 12gal. for a few days. I'm tryin'!!

 

[DarthPadre]

It's exciting, huh? I'm itching to start another one even though my first is only a couple of months old. What is the bonded filter pad? Is it one of those floss inserts?

 

[rdreed]

What is the bonded filter pad? Is it one of those floss inserts?

It's pretty much just the fiberous material that you would find on alot of pre-made filter cartridges, It's just alot thicker...blue on one side and white on the opposite side. Your lfs prolly has it. It's just to catch debris as it flows through the filter system.

 

[DarthPadre]

Take it out or clean it every day. Those are "Nitrate factories in saltwater tanks."

 

[rdreed]

What would you use to keep unwanted stuff from circulating in your water?

 

[DarthPadre]

The LR will do that. Also try to siphon any debris on the substrate during PWC's. I had only LR and powerheads for the first month and my water has always been crystal clear. You can use that floss filter pad, just remember to clean it every day or so. A simple rinse in RO/DI water to get the crap out of it will work.

 

[rdreed]

Well that gives me another option then. In my Eclipse 12 gallon I was planning on using the filtration setup that is made with that tank so I could benefit from the bio-wheel, but I guess i really don't need it in there, and it would free up alot of room under the hood if i just do away with that and get a 2nd powerhead. I have that tank ready for the liverock, and had to cram the one powerhead and the heater in the same corner to make it all fit. Still waiting on my compact flourescent bulbs and sockets though. Thanks for the advice!!

 

[rdreed]

Ok, Here is a pic of my 2.5 gal. quarantine tank. The liverock has been in there for exactly a week today. And also a pic of my Eclipse 12 gal. that is ready for liverock. Still need to retrofit the hood with the new lights.