| | #1 |
| Moderator ![]() Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Southern California
Posts: 14,778
| Here's a small article I wrote on cherry shrimp. Please feel free to ask questions or let me know what's not covered. Cherry Shrimp Neocaridina denticulata sinesis Origin: Cambodia, Thailand Temperature: 75 - 86 pH: 6-8 Maximum Size: 1.5 inches Temperment: Peaceful algae eating shrimp, will be eaten by larger fish, especially cichlids. Cherry shrimp are a color variation of the sinensis shrimp, which also come in a brown color and a green color. Tank requirements/care: They are easy to keep, requiring only an absence of predators and low nitrates (under 10ppm). They do well in a planted tank, and happily spend their days eating algae and leftover food. If you keep them in a species tank with little or no algae, feed them a variety of foods, such as algae wafers, shrimp pellets, vegetables or special foods for crabs/lobsters (both Hikari and HBH make these foods). A good supply of calcium in the shrimps’ diet is important, as is iodine. Some aquarists add some reef iodine supplement to the tank (half recommended dose, every two weeks or so) to help with molting. There is controversy about whether the shrimp can use iodine in the water column or not. As they grow, the shrimp molt on a regular basis. As they get larger, they molt less frequently. It is fine to leave the molted skins in the tank, as the shrimp will often eat them to gain back the nutrients lost on the skin. A 5g or 10g tank is fine for these shrimp. If you plan to breed these, small tankmates that will not eat the young are the best choice. Bottom feeders such as otocinclus or pygmy cories would be fine. Smaller rasboras or very small livebearers might also be a good choice. Sexing: Male shrimp are a less intense red, being mostly clear with red spots on them. Females are bright red. As the females mature, you may notice a yellow patch in the neck area – these are the ovaries. Breeding: As long as you have both males and females in your tank, and no predators, you shouldn’t have problems breeding these shrimp. Once a female is mature, she will begin producing eggs. A male will sense this, and deposit a sperm packet on the female to fertilize the eggs. If there is no male present, the unfertilized eggs will be dropped within a few days. The female carries fertilized eggs for around 22 to 28 days, after which she releases them as fully formed babies. You will see the female carrying the yellow eggs in her swimarettes, and aerating them occasionally. Extreme stress can cause the female to drop her eggs. A first-time mother will also sometimes drop her eggs. A female will produce somewhere between 10 and 20 babies, usually. The babies are about 1mm long, and look like miniature versions of the parents. The babies are usually almost clear when released, and take on a reddish color within a few days. It’s a good idea to put a sponge or mesh covering over the intake of a power/hang on back filter to stop the babies from being sucked up into the filter. Even if they are sucked up, they often survive. |
| | |
| | #3 |
| Super Fish Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 3,025
| hey lotus and all the other cherry shrimp owners, will the cherry shrimp survive 40ppm of nitrates? cause i am thinking about putting them into the 20g (if i ever do get some....) and usually i do water changes at the end of the week and the nitrates then are like 40ppm... if they do survive then do they breed? I am still not sure if i'm gonna get them cause i told my mom and she's like $30 for some shrimp!!! so i still gotta persuade her
__________________ Check out my blog for advice on gifts and presents at Gift Channel! 20g Planted Journal 40g Invert Breeding Tank |
| | |
| | #4 |
| Moderator ![]() Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Southern California
Posts: 14,778
| I wouldn't recommend it, as they tend to get pretty sick in high nitrates. Also, adding shrimp to that tank will only add to your nitrate problems. Shrimp do add to the bioload. |
| | |
| | #5 |
| Super Fish Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,414
| Great informative article Lotus .... well written too.
__________________ Fred ---50, 40Brdr, & 20G Long, Planted. 10G-ELB & Shrimp; 2 - Eclipse 12's exotic guppies; 2- 2.5G Betta/Cory Tanks. 3.3 "nano" freshwater tank. 5G Hospital Tank "I am 2 with the Universe" -- Woody Allen |
| | |
| | #6 |
| Super Fish Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 3,025
| ok well if i do ever decide to get the shrimp i'll remove some of the fish like my guppies and stuff but i'm not gonna be getting the shrimp any time soon....
__________________ Check out my blog for advice on gifts and presents at Gift Channel! 20g Planted Journal 40g Invert Breeding Tank |
| | |
| | #7 |
| Little Fish Join Date: May 2005 Location: san diego, california
Posts: 188
| i love the article, it makes me want to get some!
__________________ Two people post on this user name. Don't be confused. Our tanks are in the process of completion. |
| | |
| | #8 |
| Teenie Weenie Fish Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: singapore
Posts: 8
| i like shrimp too.. i setup a tank abt 20red shripe with many java moss but after sometimes all dead... sadsad... |
| | |
| | #9 |
| Teenie Weenie Fish Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Vancouver, B.C.
Posts: 16
| Where does one get the calcium for the shrimp? Doesn't the leftover fish flakes have any in them? |
| | |
| | #10 |
| Moderator ![]() Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Southern California
Posts: 14,778
| Yes, fish flake has some in it. Spinach is also high in calcium, and most of the special shrimp/crab foods are, too. |
| | |
![]() |
« Previous Thread
|
Next Thread »
| Thread Tools | |
| |













