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12-06-2003, 09:06 PM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Super Fish
Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,401
| Driftwood FAQ Here is my FAQ on driftwood. This is another one of the topics that there have been tons of questions asked on. So I made this to hopefully provide some help to those in need. Q: What are some benefits to driftwood? A: Besides being a great natural looking decoration it can provide shelter, nutrition for plecos and other catfish, release tannins into your water, lower your pH or stabalize it, and it can be found for free locally almost everywhere. Q: Where can I find driftwood? A: You can find it at you LFS, local taxidermy, and by any local bodies of water. Q: What woods should be avoided for aquarium use? A: Any softwoods (pines) such as ceadar, witchhazel, willow, and yew woods. Q: What woods are dangerous to my fish? A: Ceadar, witchhazel, willow, and yew woods because they can leech toxins into your water and possibly kill your fish. Q: Can I use fresh or green woods in my aquarium? A: No, the wood is still fresh so it will leech toxins into your water and will most likely rot in your tank. Q: Can driftwood decompose in my aquarium? A: Yes, after extensive boiling to rid the wood of tannins and to help sink the wood, this process can weaken the woods protein structure and within a year or two it can start to decompose causing a nitrate build up. FYI If you dont boil driftwood it can last decades. Q: What is this white fungus growing on my driftwood? A: The white stuff is fungus and it harmless. Q: How can I rid the driftwood of this fungus? A: Either by boiling or by natural process. By leaving it in your tank the natural bacteria will soon out compete the fungus and it will disappear over time. Also note that some fish actually eat this fungus such as ottos, plecos, and some corys. Q: How should I go about curing driftwood for my aquarium? A: There are a few ways to go about this, first and most suggested is to boil the driftwood. This doesnt work in all cases since they dont make pans as big as there are driftwood pieces. So if you can boil the wood, this will leech out tannins in the wood and get rid of any fungus or yuckies in the wood. It also helps the wood to absorb water to help it sink faster. If you cant boil the wood bleaching is a necessity. First make a bleach solution, 1g bleach in a 55g pale was suggested for large pieces, and then let the wood cure in the solution for a day or two. Then Id suggest removing it to another pale or emptying the pale and refilling it with clean dechlorinated water. Then keep up on water changes and use a powerhead if needed to prevent stagnant water. Q: How can I get my driftwood to sink? A: The best way ive found is to boil the wood and then submerge it by putting a rock on top of it overnight. Boiling it helps soften the wood up so it can easier absorb the water. This has worked for me before really well so id suggest this method. If you cant boil your wood you can try to pour hot/boiling water over it and then hold it underwater by a rock for similiar results. Q: Can I buy driftwood that already sinks? A: Yes, there is african, australian pine and asian driftwood that is dense and sinks readily. They cost the extra cash but sink right away, release less tannins and are already treated. You can also buy a piece of slate and attach it to the driftwood to weight it down that way. Q: Will driftwood affect my water parameters? A: It could possibly affect your KH because the tannins are some what acidic. So if your already altering your pH be aware and monitor it to avoid any pH crashes.
- depthC
Last edited by depthC; 12-06-2003 at 10:46 PM.
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12-06-2003, 09:24 PM
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#2 (permalink)
| | MFT Staff
Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 8,382
| What about something on preparing the wood for use in the aquarium?
Good job otherwise. 
__________________ Matt Quote: |
The greedy mosquito gets swatted.
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12-06-2003, 10:08 PM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Large Fish
Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Delaware County, PA
Posts: 625
| I don't see a mention of my drifwood problem: Don't put uncured driftwood in a tote with stagnate water! 
__________________ "Eric Stratton, rush chairman, damn glad to meet ya!" |
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12-06-2003, 10:12 PM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Southern California
Posts: 13,330
| Good job, again
A couple of things. If you get one of the sinking driftwoods, they release fewer tanins, and you don't have to treat them. Wood that hasn't been boiled will last 10 or more years. Of course, they cost more. Driftwood's tanins can also affect your KH, as they are mildly acidic. So, if you have CO2 going or are otherwise altering your pH you will need to monitor it for pH crashes.
Here are a couple of links that have some good info, although you have to bear in mind that they are trying to sell their driftwood. http://www.floridadriftwood.com/aquarium_driftwood.htm http://www.floridadriftwood.com/aqua..._driftwood.htm |
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12-06-2003, 10:16 PM
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#5 (permalink)
| | Medium Fish
Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Phx,AZ
Posts: 403
| typo: first answer drops off and is finished befor the second to last question. |
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12-06-2003, 10:33 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Large Fish
Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Calgary AB
Posts: 908
| There's a lot that could be added still...
On the white fungus stuff, it should be mentioned that boiling doesn't 'remove it' boiled peices will still often get it - but it does dissapear after a couple weeks (I've noticed my ottos love it).
For the preparation, there needs to be a lot more added... There's no mention of contaminants (from polluted water sources) or bleaching. My method for preping driftwood involves a 2 day bleach bath (1g jug of bleach in a 55g trash can) Lots of waterchanges, and carbon filtration for a few weeks after (Carbon changes every 2nd day). The carbon filtration is very important, it will remove any nasty chemicals.
If you can't boil the piece of wood, bleaching is pretty much a requirement, its about the only way to know that you're killing off any nasties that may be living in/on the driftwood. It's also helpful to use powerheads if you're soaking, like mentioned to reduce the stagnant water nastiness, but it also helps to sink the wood quicker.
I could go on and on, but I'm sure other people can add
Andy
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12-06-2003, 10:49 PM
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#7 (permalink)
| | Super Fish
Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,401
| Mmk, ive added quiet a bit from everyones responses. This wasnt as thought out as the sand faq since i was in a rush at the moment. Thanks everyone.
Andy - id encourage you to go on. Everything ive found and know about driftwood is pretty much on there so id be happy to learn and to add to the faq if you have anything more to add.
- depthC |
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12-07-2003, 01:39 AM
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#8 (permalink)
| | Little Fish
Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Granada Hills, Ca.
Posts: 258
| the 3rd and 4th questions should be mixed together imo.
great faq! i'm a little distressed at learning that my piece of driftwood is going to rot away, but oh well that's another year away!!!
__________________ my fish'll kick your dog's @ss anyday! |
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12-12-2003, 11:28 AM
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#9 (permalink)
| | Teenie Weenie Fish
Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 45
| someone needs to make this thread sticky!
__________________ -bowfront, fluval 209, coralife 65watts 6500k on 12 hours ,1:1 flourite and pea gravel, DIY CO2, fully submerged 120Watt heater temp set at 79 F
Plants
-acorus varigatus, anubias nana, amazon sword, java moss
Fish
-siamese algae eater, Longfin Blue Danio |
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12-13-2003, 06:50 PM
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#10 (permalink)
| | Large Fish
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Eastern MA
Posts: 635
| Sir stick a lot!
__________________ The following statement is true.
The above statement is false. |
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