A guide for beginners

AndyL · 10-12-2003, 03:16 PM

Successful Fish keeping, A guide for beginners.

Often, in this forum, we see the problems associated with beginners keeping their first fish. I’m writing this as an attempt to help put some of you on the ‘right’ track to keeping health fish.

One of the most common questions we get at myfishtank.net is about pH modification. Let me just say, that pH modification is completely unnecessary. About the only time it is necessary is if your pH is outside of the 4-10 range. If you have a pH over 10 or less than 4, get your tests verified, as its probably wrong. There are only a few places in the world with water conditions such as these. A pH reading of 7.0 is not ‘the perfect’ pH.in fact there is no perfect pH – other than the pH that you have from YOUR tap.

I personally like the analogy of pH is to fish, like humidity is to humans. If you were born and raised in the desert, then moved to the middle of the swamps. You’d be uncomfortable for a while, but you would adjust. The same applies to fish and pH levels. About the only thing to be conscious of, is that pH swings over 0.3 can be stressful to fish.

To end this topic, let me say, that there are some fish that do not do well in certain pH ranges. In general, you will not find these fish at your local fish/pet store (unless it is better than 99% out there). These fish are definitely not for beginners.

Tank cycling is still one of the biggest topics out there. Every beginner has to deal with it, and it probably causes almost as many fish deaths as pH modification. Many others cover it very well, Let me just say that you do need to own ammonia (NH3), Nitrite (NO2) and nitrate (NO3) test kit. Refer to the articles on myfishtank.net and www.thekrib.com . The basics you really need to understand is simply fish poop! Fish poop contains or creates ammonia which is harmful to fish, the bacteria that slowly develops in your filter media takes that ammonia and converts it into nitrite (which is also harmful to fish). A slower growing bacteria converts nitrite into nitrate which is relatively harmless to fish, in low concentrations. Nitrates are only removed from your fish tank in 2 ways, plant/algae growth and water changes.

For a new tank, it will take 6-8 weeks (or more) for the tank to cycle. You know the tank is cycled when you test the water, and the results show levels of Ammonia and Nitrite that are 0, and nitrate levels that rise slowly.

One of those hard to answer questions that we receive daily on the board deals with fish stocking. It is very easy to ask on the board will X get along with Y. But the number of such questions every day, has gotten out of hand. Please feel free to do your own research. There are fish profiles out there, for just about every fish. All the commonly found fish are covered multiple times. See the profiles here on www.myfishtank.net , www.fishprofiles.com and surprisingly if you enter the common name or scientific name of any fish on google, yahoo or askjeeves you will find a lot of specific information about these fish. As a beginner it would be wise to stay away from aggressive and territorial fish.

Do you really need a heater? In a word – YES. If your house stayed at a constant temperature of 78degrees 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. You’d still need a heater. The main reason is, most houses do not stay at a consistent temperature all day, and all year. Most houses have drafts, air conditioning or other variables that would affect tank temperatures. Having a heater will reduce the temperature swings that invariably causes fish stress. If that wasn’t reason enough, many of the more common aquarium maladies (fish illnesses) use heat as part of the treatment. For the minimal cost of a heater – its well worth the purchase.

Next time I'm bored

I'll write more!

Andy

mfj · 10-12-2003, 07:38 PM

nice job andy, ever think about writing a book?

Cichlid-Man · 10-12-2003, 08:48 PM

Great job.............Sticky??

STICKY!!!

jaws2 · 10-12-2003, 09:18 PM

we need a sticky!!!!!!

jaws2 · 10-12-2003, 09:19 PM

BTW nice article

AndyL · 10-13-2003, 12:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mfj
nice job andy, ever think about writing a book?

LOL - there would be too much editing involved... You have no idea how good I am at inconherent rambling for the sake of rambling.

Andy

Managuense · 10-13-2003, 08:51 AM

nice write up.

i think it should be added that it is much easier to increase ph and stabilize it than it is to lower it and keep it there. (not that it is needed in 99% of all cases)

just a quick 2 cents.
M

fish · 10-14-2003, 09:17 PM

Very nice Andy! I really appreciated the analogy of pH is to fish, like humidity is to humans....very true!!

Keep up the great advice.

rtbs!!! · 12-01-2003, 09:27 AM

That's really useful advice. Thanks a bunch. The problem I have is that my lfs keep telling my stuff that opposes the ideas on this forum. The best conclusion I can draw is that they are after my money while you guys just want fish to be happy! Rock on Andy!

Iggy · 12-01-2003, 09:35 AM

Nice article Andy.

10-12-2003, 03:16 PM	#1
AndyL Large Fish Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Calgary AB Posts: 908	A guide for beginners - part 1 Successful Fish keeping, A guide for beginners. Often, in this forum, we see the problems associated with beginners keeping their first fish. I’m writing this as an attempt to help put some of you on the ‘right’ track to keeping health fish. One of the most common questions we get at myfishtank.net is about pH modification. Let me just say, that pH modification is completely unnecessary. About the only time it is necessary is if your pH is outside of the 4-10 range. If you have a pH over 10 or less than 4, get your tests verified, as its probably wrong. There are only a few places in the world with water conditions such as these. A pH reading of 7.0 is not ‘the perfect’ pH.in fact there is no perfect pH – other than the pH that you have from YOUR tap. I personally like the analogy of pH is to fish, like humidity is to humans. If you were born and raised in the desert, then moved to the middle of the swamps. You’d be uncomfortable for a while, but you would adjust. The same applies to fish and pH levels. About the only thing to be conscious of, is that pH swings over 0.3 can be stressful to fish. To end this topic, let me say, that there are some fish that do not do well in certain pH ranges. In general, you will not find these fish at your local fish/pet store (unless it is better than 99% out there). These fish are definitely not for beginners. Tank cycling is still one of the biggest topics out there. Every beginner has to deal with it, and it probably causes almost as many fish deaths as pH modification. Many others cover it very well, Let me just say that you do need to own ammonia (NH3), Nitrite (NO2) and nitrate (NO3) test kit. Refer to the articles on myfishtank.net and www.thekrib.com . The basics you really need to understand is simply fish poop! Fish poop contains or creates ammonia which is harmful to fish, the bacteria that slowly develops in your filter media takes that ammonia and converts it into nitrite (which is also harmful to fish). A slower growing bacteria converts nitrite into nitrate which is relatively harmless to fish, in low concentrations. Nitrates are only removed from your fish tank in 2 ways, plant/algae growth and water changes. For a new tank, it will take 6-8 weeks (or more) for the tank to cycle. You know the tank is cycled when you test the water, and the results show levels of Ammonia and Nitrite that are 0, and nitrate levels that rise slowly. One of those hard to answer questions that we receive daily on the board deals with fish stocking. It is very easy to ask on the board will X get along with Y. But the number of such questions every day, has gotten out of hand. Please feel free to do your own research. There are fish profiles out there, for just about every fish. All the commonly found fish are covered multiple times. See the profiles here on www.myfishtank.net , www.fishprofiles.com and surprisingly if you enter the common name or scientific name of any fish on google, yahoo or askjeeves you will find a lot of specific information about these fish. As a beginner it would be wise to stay away from aggressive and territorial fish. Do you really need a heater? In a word – YES. If your house stayed at a constant temperature of 78degrees 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. You’d still need a heater. The main reason is, most houses do not stay at a consistent temperature all day, and all year. Most houses have drafts, air conditioning or other variables that would affect tank temperatures. Having a heater will reduce the temperature swings that invariably causes fish stress. If that wasn’t reason enough, many of the more common aquarium maladies (fish illnesses) use heat as part of the treatment. For the minimal cost of a heater – its well worth the purchase. Next time I'm bored I'll write more! Andy __________________

10-12-2003, 07:38 PM	#2
mfj Little Fish Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: harrisburg nc Posts: 143	nice job andy, ever think about writing a book? __________________ 125 gal - 1 pleco, 1 kisser, 2 golden angels, 2 gold gouramis, 3 silver dollars, 3 balas, 5 guppies, 6 otos, 11 neons. 10 gal quarantine - empty

10-12-2003, 08:48 PM	#3
Cichlid-Man MFT Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 8,811	Great job.............Sticky?? STICKY!!! __________________

10-12-2003, 09:18 PM	#4
jaws2 Large Fish Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: massachusetts Posts: 625	we need a sticky!!!!!! __________________ If a pretty picture and a cute saying gets you motivated, then you've got an easy job. The kind of job that a robot will be doing soon.

10-12-2003, 09:19 PM	#5
jaws2 Large Fish Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: massachusetts Posts: 625	BTW nice article __________________ If a pretty picture and a cute saying gets you motivated, then you've got an easy job. The kind of job that a robot will be doing soon.

10-13-2003, 08:51 AM	#7
Managuense Super Fish Join Date: May 2003 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 1,204	nice write up. i think it should be added that it is much easier to increase ph and stabilize it than it is to lower it and keep it there. (not that it is needed in 99% of all cases) just a quick 2 cents. M __________________ 125 gallon burundi colony (8 F2's) 58 gallon (grow out) 2 gallon http://www.tomstanganyikans.com/ http://www.neptuneaquatics.com/ http://www.ohiexchange.com/armke/ http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/frontosa_corner.php

10-14-2003, 09:17 PM	#8
fish Teenie Weenie Fish Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 44	Very nice Andy! I really appreciated the analogy of pH is to fish, like humidity is to humans....very true!! Keep up the great advice. __________________ 20 gal w/ bio-wheel filter : 3 Long Finned Zebra Danios and 2 Leopard danio

12-01-2003, 09:27 AM	#9
rtbs!!! Teenie Weenie Fish Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Blackpool, England Posts: 46	That's really useful advice. Thanks a bunch. The problem I have is that my lfs keep telling my stuff that opposes the ideas on this forum. The best conclusion I can draw is that they are after my money while you guys just want fish to be happy! Rock on Andy!

12-01-2003, 09:35 AM	#10
Iggy Super Fish Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Leduc, AB, Canada Posts: 1,668	Nice article Andy. __________________ Iggys Tanks