Silicone Application....Driving me nuts!!!

rg0019 · 02-08-2004, 04:15 PM

First, I would like to say hello to everyone. This is my first post.

I have a 55 gal tank I am trying to re-silicone. This will be my 4th attempt at the back left corner. I'm getting so frustrated that I'm thinking about trashing this tank. So, before I try again are there any tips the experts can give me. Here's what I've done so far:

1. empty the tank
2. removed the old silicone (noticed there were some bubbles in it)
3. took a razor blade to the glass to remove left over silicone
4. tried to use windex to remove residue silicone
5. going to let it sit for a couple of day to completely dry out

If it does not work this last time, its going in the trash, and I'm buying a new one. Anyone know a place where I can get a 55 gal tank for a reasonable price? Thanks for your help....

Lotus · 02-08-2004, 04:26 PM

If the silicone is very thick where you are applying it, I would wait a minimum of 3 or 4 days. I would wait even longer if the weather is cold or humid. Curing the silicone is very important. Are you sure that's the only place it is leaking from?

If all else fails, good places to look for bargain tanks are at garage sales and local classified ad papers. Sometimes eBay or Aquabid.com will have a tank in your area for sale. It doesn't usually make sense to have one sent, but a pick-up would work fine.

Welcome to the tank

CoNMaN · 02-09-2004, 08:52 AM

Well i know the only aqurium silicon i can find around here is only rated for 30 gal tanks. So if your sealing the bottom of your tank it might not be able to stand the water pressure. I just resealed a trashed 30 gal and 55 gal this summer. Both i found on garbage day. The 30 needed all the seams redone. And it took me a few tries to get it right, because the bottom of the tank leaked when the tank was all the way full, but not when it was half full. (water pressure) the 55 was only cracked in the top 3 inches so it stuck and no very much water pressure. I would check your silicon tube to see how big of tank you can seal.

BTW Welcome to your fish tank.

Purple · 02-09-2004, 09:31 AM

One big thing to watch out for when using silicone is that the surfaces to be treated are "clean and dry". You really do need a perfectly clean surface to get the stuff to work at its best. As usual, it's an hour of prep work and 5 mins with the silicone tube, but get it right and you'll only need to do it once, so it's worth investing the extra bit of time on the prep work.

rg0019 · 02-09-2004, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Lotus
If the silicone is very thick where you are applying it, I would wait a minimum of 3 or 4 days. I would wait even longer if the weather is cold or humid. Curing the silicone is very important. Are you sure that's the only place it is leaking from?

I went ahead and removed the silicone from the vertical seal in the corner. Also, I remove the silicone from both sides on the bottom. I figured there may be a runner somewhere on the bottom.

Quote:

Well i know the only aqurium silicon i can find around here is only rated for 30 gal tanks. So if your sealing the bottom of your tank it might not be able to stand the water

Oh, I never thought of that. I got the silicone from Home Depot. Here's what it says on the back: Meets ASTM specification c 920, Class 25, Type S, Grade NS. Crap, never mind just found this: Limitations: 30 gallons or less.

Quote:

One big thing to watch out for when using silicone is that the surfaces to be treated are "clean and dry". You really do need a perfectly clean surface to get the stuff to work at its best. As usual, it's an hour of prep work and 5 mins with the silicone tube, but get it right and you'll only need to do it once, so it's worth investing the extra bit of time on the prep work.

Now, that I know I need different silicone. Anyone have any tricks to completely remove all the silicone. I tried with a razor blade, it got most off. There still is a slight residue left. Is there any cleaner I can buy?

Finally, can someone recommend a store(b&m or internet) thats sells silicone rated for 55 gal tanks? Thanks for everyone help. I think I would have drove myself mad if I would have tried it again.

Somonas · 02-10-2004, 12:30 PM

I use vinegar.
I use regular silicon from Home Depot - I think it's called Silicon II, in the big blue thing and it works fine in my experience for my 10's and 20's.
note I have never resiliconed anything over 20 gal but I did reSEAL a 110.

TurbineSurgeon · 02-28-2004, 01:19 AM

Okay... been there, done that! This is my first post here, but probably not my last (although it just might be my longest).

About 18 years ago, I bought a used 75 gallon tank that had a leaky corner.

Chances are, you wont be able to get a good seal in just one localized area. There will be contamination on the old silicone and water will wick through this void. You will have to remove the end piece and then re-attach it. To do this, you will need to use single-edged razor blades (Home Depot in the paint department), alcohol (isopropyl will work for the tank; any other for yourself is optional), masking tape (optional), duct tape (more on that later), silicone sealer (just make sure it is 100% silicone, with no fungicides, etc.) and a fair amount of patience. Oh, and since you will be working with razor blades and glass, gloves may be in order, too.

The first thing to do is to remove the top rim. This is usually attached to the glass with silicone. Take a blade (or a sharp knife for this part), and run it between the top frame and glass-- inside and out. After you have done this a couple of times, start to pry the frame off. After a little bit of wiggling (and more slicing and cussing), you should be able to work the frame free. Clean off the old silicone as best as you can.

Now it really gets good. Take a fresh razor blade and cut away as much of the silicone bead as you can on all three edges of the end piece. Then, carefully work the blade into the top of the seam where the front meets the side. Do the same where the back and the side meet. Gently pry the corner apart as you work the blade lower. Eventually, you will be able to remove the end piece.

Now, take another fresh razor blade and scrape all of the old silicone off (I mean ALL of it!). After all traces of the old stuff are gone, wipe the areas with isopropyl alcohol to make sure they are clean. Here's an optional part: Test-fit the side back where it goes and hold it in place with a couple of pieces of tape (masking or duct--your call). Put strips of masking tape about 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the inside corners. This will help you get a straight line of silicone on the joints. If you did this last part, take the end back off. If you didn't... well, you don't need to.

Now take your 100% silicone sealer and run a continuous bead from the top of the front, down across the bottom, and up the back to the top. You gotta be quick here. Now slide the end piece in place starting at the bottom and line everything up. Take a couple of strips of duct tape to hold everything in place. The hard part is now behind you. Now you can run a bead of silicone on the inside corners and smooth it out with a tongue depresser, a popsicle stick, or your finger. Remove the masking tape from the inside before it starts to dry (don't worry too much about little silicone stringy thingies, they are easy to clean up later).

Make sure you put enough duct tape on it to make sure nothing shifts (big woodworking clamps can also be used if you have them). Go away for at least 24 hours. Don't touch it. Don't even look at it. Okay, you can check on it if you must.

After the silicone has cured (at least 24 hours... 48 would be better), remove the duct tape and trim off any stringy thingies. Blob some silicone in the channel of the top frame and stick it back on. Go away for another 24-48 hours.

Now for the moment of truth: set the aquarium outside on a level surface (or its stand) and fill it up.

That's how I did it 18 years ago in what is now my 75 gallon planted freshwater aquarium. Good luck.

Even more stuff about this can be found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqrepairfaqs.htm

(And since you're in the Dallas area, PM me if you have any questions)

SomethingFishy · 03-10-2004, 03:23 PM

VERY IMPRESSIVE POST!!

I stumbled upon the post and was interested. Not necessarily going to do any re-sealing but was intrigued in case I ever do. Now if I ever do . . . you post really helped.

A very well written and informative . . . a good read.

TurbineSurgeon · 03-11-2004, 08:59 PM

Without being arrogant, thanks.

(If that was aimed at me)

joice · 06-21-2009, 05:11 PM

a good way to get the silicone residue off the tank glass is put isopropyl alcohol on a cloth and wipe it down with that, gets it right off.

02-08-2004, 04:15 PM	#1
rg0019 Teenie Weenie Fish Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 10	Silicone Application....Driving me nuts!!! First, I would like to say hello to everyone. This is my first post. I have a 55 gal tank I am trying to re-silicone. This will be my 4th attempt at the back left corner. I'm getting so frustrated that I'm thinking about trashing this tank. So, before I try again are there any tips the experts can give me. Here's what I've done so far: 1. empty the tank 2. removed the old silicone (noticed there were some bubbles in it) 3. took a razor blade to the glass to remove left over silicone 4. tried to use windex to remove residue silicone 5. going to let it sit for a couple of day to completely dry out If it does not work this last time, its going in the trash, and I'm buying a new one. Anyone know a place where I can get a 55 gal tank for a reasonable price? Thanks for your help....

02-08-2004, 04:26 PM	#2
Lotus Moderator Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Southern California Posts: 14,778	If the silicone is very thick where you are applying it, I would wait a minimum of 3 or 4 days. I would wait even longer if the weather is cold or humid. Curing the silicone is very important. Are you sure that's the only place it is leaking from? If all else fails, good places to look for bargain tanks are at garage sales and local classified ad papers. Sometimes eBay or Aquabid.com will have a tank in your area for sale. It doesn't usually make sense to have one sent, but a pick-up would work fine. Welcome to the tank __________________ Lotus and Ecotank's tanks "So long, and thanks for all the fish."

02-09-2004, 08:52 AM	#3
CoNMaN Large Fish Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Madison, Wisconsin Posts: 788	Well i know the only aqurium silicon i can find around here is only rated for 30 gal tanks. So if your sealing the bottom of your tank it might not be able to stand the water pressure. I just resealed a trashed 30 gal and 55 gal this summer. Both i found on garbage day. The 30 needed all the seams redone. And it took me a few tries to get it right, because the bottom of the tank leaked when the tank was all the way full, but not when it was half full. (water pressure) the 55 was only cracked in the top 3 inches so it stuck and no very much water pressure. I would check your silicon tube to see how big of tank you can seal. BTW Welcome to your fish tank. __________________

02-09-2004, 09:31 AM	#4
Purple Super Fish Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Hampshire UK Posts: 1,616	One big thing to watch out for when using silicone is that the surfaces to be treated are "clean and dry". You really do need a perfectly clean surface to get the stuff to work at its best. As usual, it's an hour of prep work and 5 mins with the silicone tube, but get it right and you'll only need to do it once, so it's worth investing the extra bit of time on the prep work. __________________ Purple Beware of the fish .... Vote for the Tank!

02-10-2004, 12:30 PM	#6
Somonas Super Fish Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: O-town Posts: 2,061	I use vinegar. I use regular silicon from Home Depot - I think it's called Silicon II, in the big blue thing and it works fine in my experience for my 10's and 20's. note I have never resiliconed anything over 20 gal but I did reSEAL a 110. __________________ Art's Pics

02-28-2004, 01:19 AM	#7
TurbineSurgeon Super Fish Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 1,227	Okay... been there, done that! This is my first post here, but probably not my last (although it just might be my longest). About 18 years ago, I bought a used 75 gallon tank that had a leaky corner. Chances are, you wont be able to get a good seal in just one localized area. There will be contamination on the old silicone and water will wick through this void. You will have to remove the end piece and then re-attach it. To do this, you will need to use single-edged razor blades (Home Depot in the paint department), alcohol (isopropyl will work for the tank; any other for yourself is optional), masking tape (optional), duct tape (more on that later), silicone sealer (just make sure it is 100% silicone, with no fungicides, etc.) and a fair amount of patience. Oh, and since you will be working with razor blades and glass, gloves may be in order, too. The first thing to do is to remove the top rim. This is usually attached to the glass with silicone. Take a blade (or a sharp knife for this part), and run it between the top frame and glass-- inside and out. After you have done this a couple of times, start to pry the frame off. After a little bit of wiggling (and more slicing and cussing), you should be able to work the frame free. Clean off the old silicone as best as you can. Now it really gets good. Take a fresh razor blade and cut away as much of the silicone bead as you can on all three edges of the end piece. Then, carefully work the blade into the top of the seam where the front meets the side. Do the same where the back and the side meet. Gently pry the corner apart as you work the blade lower. Eventually, you will be able to remove the end piece. Now, take another fresh razor blade and scrape all of the old silicone off (I mean ALL of it!). After all traces of the old stuff are gone, wipe the areas with isopropyl alcohol to make sure they are clean. Here's an optional part: Test-fit the side back where it goes and hold it in place with a couple of pieces of tape (masking or duct--your call). Put strips of masking tape about 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the inside corners. This will help you get a straight line of silicone on the joints. If you did this last part, take the end back off. If you didn't... well, you don't need to. Now take your 100% silicone sealer and run a continuous bead from the top of the front, down across the bottom, and up the back to the top. You gotta be quick here. Now slide the end piece in place starting at the bottom and line everything up. Take a couple of strips of duct tape to hold everything in place. The hard part is now behind you. Now you can run a bead of silicone on the inside corners and smooth it out with a tongue depresser, a popsicle stick, or your finger. Remove the masking tape from the inside before it starts to dry (don't worry too much about little silicone stringy thingies, they are easy to clean up later). Make sure you put enough duct tape on it to make sure nothing shifts (big woodworking clamps can also be used if you have them). Go away for at least 24 hours. Don't touch it. Don't even look at it. Okay, you can check on it if you must. After the silicone has cured (at least 24 hours... 48 would be better), remove the duct tape and trim off any stringy thingies. Blob some silicone in the channel of the top frame and stick it back on. Go away for another 24-48 hours. Now for the moment of truth: set the aquarium outside on a level surface (or its stand) and fill it up. That's how I did it 18 years ago in what is now my 75 gallon planted freshwater aquarium. Good luck. Even more stuff about this can be found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqrepairfaqs.htm (And since you're in the Dallas area, PM me if you have any questions) __________________ I remember when sex was safe and flying was dangerous In this great pond we call life, it is important to remember how big a fish you are

03-10-2004, 03:23 PM	#8
SomethingFishy Little Fish Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Auburn, CA Posts: 260	VERY IMPRESSIVE POST!! I stumbled upon the post and was interested. Not necessarily going to do any re-sealing but was intrigued in case I ever do. Now if I ever do . . . you post really helped. A very well written and informative . . . a good read. __________________ Let us so live that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry. -Mark Twain

03-11-2004, 08:59 PM	#9
TurbineSurgeon Super Fish Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 1,227	Without being arrogant, thanks. (If that was aimed at me) __________________ I remember when sex was safe and flying was dangerous In this great pond we call life, it is important to remember how big a fish you are

06-21-2009, 05:11 PM	#10
joice Teenie Weenie Fish Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 2	a good way to get the silicone residue off the tank glass is put isopropyl alcohol on a cloth and wipe it down with that, gets it right off.