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Old 02-27-2008, 06:37 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Great article! Time for stickies!
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Old 02-29-2008, 09:49 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Awesome article! I learned that eventhough I just have java fern in my tank, it might not be the best thing to vac my gravel every water change!
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:40 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Um, I have a different method of fertilization that has always worked for me, and I have had aquariums for over 15 years with live plants-not trying to be a douche or anything, but fish crap works great. Here's how I set up a new tank- Gravel, water, fish. Add some dechlorinator and balance the ph. Next step- never touch the tank unless you are adding water-then add some dechlorinator. I use some Easy Balance(Tetra product) when I add water as well. I never change the water, rarely change the filter, and have a ton of fish that are completely happy, as well as such rapid and luxurious plant growth that I have to periodically chop them back as they block the view of the fish. My method is the live and let live method, and as far as I am concerned(no offense to anyone, I know there are lots of people who know way more than me about aquatic life), plant fertilizer, ph balance, ammonia tests, etc. are a waste of money. I say ultra oxygenate, ultra filter, tons of plants, tons of fish, and LET IT BE.
I apologize to anyone (probably everyone) who knows more than me.
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Old 06-25-2008, 07:38 PM   #34 (permalink)
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This article is undergoing a revision. Posts 1 & 2 are updated. There will be more to follow!
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Old 07-09-2008, 07:52 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Posts merged to include carbon article...still working on it all.
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Old 07-09-2008, 09:09 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I am loving it Avalon! Now I understand what you have been teaching me all along :P. I think I might do a tank restart come September and follow this method along word for word. Either that or set up another tank someday and do it as you say.

I have a question though. You mention 10ppm as being a decent benchmark for K levels. Does that mean you should dose 10ppm per day or just get it to 10ppm after a water change say, and then dose smaller amounts to cover the uptake as the week progresses?

What I mean is, should I do a schedule like this for K dosing (each day is separated by a comma): W/C, 10ppm, ~1ppm, ~1ppm, ~1ppm, ~1ppm, ~1ppm- or a schedule like this: W/C, 10ppm, 10ppm, 10ppm, 10ppm, 10ppm, 10ppm?
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Old 07-10-2008, 06:20 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ishar View Post
I have a question though. You mention 10ppm as being a decent benchmark for K levels. Does that mean you should dose 10ppm per day or just get it to 10ppm after a water change say, and then dose smaller amounts to cover the uptake as the week progresses?
The latter. Many say you don't need additional K when dosing dry ferts since they all have K, but raising the initial amount seems to help with a few plants, namely Hygrophila sp. From there, the dosing of N & P ferts should be enough. I would re-dose K at about once per week (if no water changes), more under very high light conditions or a heavily planted tank with a high growth rate.
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Old 09-17-2008, 01:43 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Default How to Fertilize a Planted Tank

When aquatic plants are growing well, they will consume the nutrients that are available in the water. These nutrients fall into two categories: Macronutrients and Micronutrients. Macronutrients are those which the plants needs in large amounts.

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